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How to Install Brake Pads on a 2005 Buick Century

2012-06-08   Views:1

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The 2005 Buick Century shares a similar braking system with other GM models manufactured between 2001 to 2005. The Pontiac Grand Prix, the Chevy Impala, the Oldsmobile Intrigue, the Chevy Lumina, the Chevy Monte Carlo and the Buick Regal all employ s

How to Install Brake Pads on a 2005 Buick Century

The 2005 Buick Century shares a similar braking system with other GM models manufactured between 2001 to 2005. The Pontiac Grand Prix, the Chevy Impala, the Oldsmobile Intrigue, the Chevy Lumina, the Chevy Monte Carlo and the Buick Regal all employ similar braking systems. While the Century and some of the other models may feature rear disc brakes, all of these models come standard with front disc brakes. The replacement procedure for front or rear disk brakes is virtually the same for all the mentioned models. To complete this task, you will need a special tool or kit for the rear caliper piston.

Skill level:Moderate

Things you need

Clean brake fluid siphonWheel nut wrenchCar jackJack stand(s)Large C-clamp (front brakes only)Box-end wrench setCaliper hanger or wireSmall pry toolWire brushHigh temp brake greaseReplacement brake pad setTorque wrench and socket setBrake fluid

Instructions

1 Siphon 2/3 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder, discard the old fluid and then replace the cover.

2 Remove the hubcaps (if applicable), then loosen the wheel nuts with a wheel nut wrench (just enough to back them away from the wheel rims).

3 Hoist the Century, using a car jack, then place a jack stand under the frame rail. You can lift both sides of the same axle or just lift one side at a time.

4 Remove the wheel nuts and tire(s).

5 Compress the caliper piston (front brakes only--see "Tips" for rear caliper piston compression) by placing a C-clamp over the caliper; make sure that the top of the clamp is touching the back of the caliper and the drive of the clamp is seated on the outboard pad. Slowly tighten the clamp until the caliper piston is fully compressed.

6 Remove the two caliper mounting bolts with a box-end wrench, then remove the caliper from the mounting anchor. Place the caliper on a caliper hanger or wire and support it to the chassis. Do not disconnect the brake hose banjo bolt from the caliper, or you will introduce air into the sealed braking system; if this happens, you will need to bleed the system after replacing the pads.

7 Use a small pry tool to pry off the retaining spring on the outboard pad in order to remove it from the caliper housing. Remove the inboard pad from the caliper piston by unsnapping the pad-retaining spring from the caliper piston.

8 Clean all mating surfaces between the caliper and caliper mounting bracket, then apply an even coat of brake grease to these areas. Inspect the caliper bushings and slides for corrosion and lubricate with brake grease.

9 Reverse the removal procedure to replace the pads. Be sure to place the inboard pad first in the caliper by snapping the pad-retaining springs into the piston. Make sure that both sets of locking tabs are seated in the caliper pistons. The pad must sit flat against the pistons.

10 Install the outboard pad into the caliper by snapping the retaining spring over the caliper tab and into its respective housing slot. Slide the pad up onto the caliper, and the retaining ring will lock it into place with the groove in the caliper. The outboard pad wear sensor should be at the bottom edge of the pad during forward wheel rotation.

11 Align the caliper mounting bolts through the caliper housing and thread them into the knuckle. Tighten them to 80 foot-pounds (front bolts only--32 foot-pounds for the rear) with a torque wrench and suitable sized socket.

12 Replace the wheels and wheel nuts and torque them in a star pattern to 100 foot-pounds.

13 Pump the foot brake pedal to seat the pistons and pads until the pedal feels firm, then test drive the Century for proper braking performance.

Tips and warnings

The rear caliper piston cannot be compressed with a C-clamp: Instead, pry it off the rotor after removing the caliper mounting bolts, then use a caliper reset tool kit (or a special cube with various notches) with a ratchet to screw the piston inward in a clockwise motion. The correct notch pattern of the cube or the correct adaptor of the kit has to be matched to the notches on the caliper piston bore. Once the caliper piston has been driven into the bore, it has to be aligned to the tab positions of the pads when installed (these would be the 6 and 12 o'clock positions). The remainder of the procedure is standard. The other main difference is that the rear pads would remain in the caliper mounting bracket once the caliper has been removed.

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