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How to Mark a Corset for Boning

2012-01-14   Views:7

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Boning is appropriately named, as it is the skeleton that shapes the body of the corset. Made of either steel or plastic, boning comes in many sizes. The corsetiere inserts the boning into vertically sewn channels around the corset, leaving the weare

How to Mark a Corset for Boning

Boning is appropriately named, as it is the skeleton that shapes the body of the corset. Made of either steel or plastic, boning comes in many sizes. The corsetiere inserts the boning into vertically sewn channels around the corset, leaving the wearer with a pleasantly cylindrical torso. The size and amount of boning determines the strength of the finished corset. Marking your corset or pattern for boning is simple with a small amount of planning.

Skill level:Easy

Things you need

Corset or patternTailor's chalk or penBoning materialTape measure

Instructions

1 Lay the corset or pattern out on a flat surface. The back pieces should be on the left and right sides, with the front piece in the centre. If marking directly on the corset, make sure the inside, or lining, is facing up.

2 Mark the bottom of the corset 1/2 inch to the left of the centre on the front piece. If using a busk, mark 1/2 inch to the left of the busk.

3 Mark the top of the corset 1 inch to the left of the centre.

4 Lay the boning material flat between the two marks.

5 Trace each side of the boning material with tailor's chalk or a pen, leaving 1/4 inch for seam allowance. The vertical lines should be parallel to each other for each mark. You want the boning to be snug, but if the channels are too tight the fabric may rip.

6 Make another mark at the top and centre of the left bust.

7 Use a tape measure or other straight edge to draw a vertical line from the top mark to the bottom, and mark. Trace the boning again to create the channel markings. All boning in the front of the corset should be completely vertical or with a slight diagonal. You may add as many boning channels as you wish, as long as they are symmetrical on each side of the corset.

1 Mark the top of the pattern on the left side of the bust, beneath the armhole.

2 Use a straight edge to draw a vertical line to the bottom, then mark the bottom of the corset one or two inches to the right, depending on how much space you have and how dramatic you want the diagonal to be. When you repeat this on the right side of the corset, you will mark to the left of the straight edge, so the diagonals point toward the back of the corset. Any additional boning marks made on the side pieces of the corset should be diagonal as well, with the bottom marks closer to each other than the top marks to create a "fan" pattern.

3 Lay the boning material between the marks and trace.

4 On the left side of the corset, make a mark 1 1/2 inches to the right of the back centre on the top and bottom. This will leave space for grommets and lacing. Make the marks closer to the edge if your corset laces only in the front.

5 Lay the boning material between the marks and trace. Any diagonal marks on the back of the corset should point toward the front. Repeat all steps symmetrically on the right side of the corset.

Tips and warnings

The exact placement of the boning does not matter as long as it is symmetrical on each side.

Most corset patterns are already marked for boning, so following the pattern is the most efficient way to mark for boning.

The link in the Resources section shows a guide of general boning layout on a corset.

After marking the first channel, you may want to sew it and insert the boning to check that it is wide enough. Adjust the channel width based on this fitting.

The boning itself should be about 1/2 inch shorter than the corset so you can hem the top edge later.

Use duct tape on the edge of the boning if it is too sharp, otherwise it may puncture a hole in the corset.

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